Wheel Bearing

Picking the Right Wheel Bearing for Your Ride

Wheel bearings are made to last 150,000 miles or more. However, they need to support the vehicle's weight, so constant load and over load will sure take their toll on them as well as on their grease and seals, causing the bearings to wear out prematurely. When the seal wears out and the grease starts to leak, your ride's bearings are in trouble. If you now hear unusual noises coming from the wheels, you'd better check your bearings immediately. If replacement is needed, don't hold back. You surely don't want your wheels to fly off your axle while you're driving, do you?

The different types of wheel bearing for your ride

Automotive wheel bearings come in many different kinds and designs. Among the types of bearings commonly used in automotive applications are:

• ball bearings
• roller bearings
• thrust ball bearings
• roller thrust bearings
• taper roller bearings

When purchasing a new one, it is wise to base your choice on the type and specifications of the bearing that needs replacement. This will help you avoid incompatibility issues, which can lead to more serious vehicle problems. You also need to consider other important factors, such as materials and the quantity they are sold.

Ceramic vs. stainless steel wheel bearings

Most wheel bearings are made of stainless steel because this material doesn't rust and has the ability to resist corrosive elements. They can work well even when subjected to high temperatures and yes, they can do that without showing signs of corrosion and degradation and without a need for lubrication.

Ceramic wheel bearings, on the other hand, are made from silicon nitride, which can lubricate itself. They are a great investment because they definitely last longer than steel bearings. Ceramic bearings are also stiffer, keeping your wheels pointed and able to spin and accelerate faster for better performance. Not only do they lessen rolling resistance, ceramic bearings also ensure lower friction, making the battery last longer and the engine run cooler. With these bearings, the driveline also becomes more efficient.

Wheel bearing kit vs. individual wheel bearing

Those who need to replace only one bearing can save bucks by getting a unit that's sold individually. But if you need several bearings plus other parts necessary for easy installation, a wheel bearing kit is right for you. A kit may include some or all of these things: bearing protector, bearing cover, split pin, seal, lock nut, circlip, o-ring, washer, and spacer.

10 DIY Steps on Replacing your Car's Wheel Bearing

A typical wheel bearing can last for an average of 100,000 miles, but eventually the stresses of the road will cause them to wear out. And since bad bearings can lead to groaning wheels or ? in a worst case scenario ? the wheels falling off, they must be replaced immediately as soon as they show signs of wear or damage.

Difficulty level: Moderate

Tools needed:

• Jack and jack stands
• Hammer
• Screwdriver
• Mallet
• Seal and race driver set

Step 1: With the car parked on a level surface, jack up the car and place the jack stands under the frame for support.

Step 2: Remove the wheel and the brake caliper from the wheel hub. Clean the inside of the hub and spindle with rags.

Step 3: With your screw driver, gently pry the grease cup out from the hub. You can use the mallet to help loosen the cup.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin, retaining ring and axle spindle nut. Next, grab the disc and take out the hub or rotor-hub assembly from the axle. At this point the outer wheel bearing should drop out.

Step 5: Knock the outer race out from the hub with a drift and hammer. Tap alternately on each side to prevent cracking the race. Once the outer race is removed, flip over the hub and use the same procedure to knock out the inner race, bearing and seal.

Step 6: Pack the replacement inner and outer wheel bearings. Make sure that the grease goes inside the cage and rollers.

Step 7: Using an amply-sized driver, drive in the inner race until it is seated all the way in. Put the bearing in the race, pack it in with grease, and use the driver again to seat the grease seal. Flip over the hub and repeat the process for the outer race. Make sure that all the races and seals are level.

Step 8: Fill the hub with just enough grease and place it on the spindle. Attach the wheel bearing, washer and axle nut.

Step 9: Replace the retaining ring and secure it with a new cotter pin. Replace the bearing grease cup and clean all the excess grease from outside of the hub.

Step 10: Re-install the calipers and wheel back into the hub and check for wheel play. If done correctly, the wheel should have little or no play when moved.